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Sumba
Written on March 2021, updated in Jan 2022
Sumba is a hidden paradise and an island of contrast: Despite being one of the poorest islands of Indonesia it has one of the most luxurious and best hotels in the world, Nihi Sumba, where elites like Beckham's family spent their vacation.
With its natural wonders, untouched beaches, rich culture, and ancient traditions, Sumba has been touted as the next big thing in Indonesian tourism. It is quickly becoming a popular travel destination.
It is only 50 min flight from Bali, but it feels as though you have landed in a different country. Landscape is mixture of dry undulating savanna hills (no green steep volcanoes like in many other Indonesian islands) and untamed beaches. Beautiful white beaches with no tourists! Whole beach just for yourself!
Sumba is a very dry island and only gets green in the rainy season. It is beautiful in both seasons.
One thing to be aware of here at the beaches are sand flies. This can really spoil your experience if you are not prepared for those. When we travelled in dry season we have not seen a single sand fly and were not even aware of them being at Sumba.
While in rainy season, we have quite an unpleasant experience. In about 6 beautiful beaches we visited, they were at 3.
Mostly in the morning and in the evening. It was not easy while the kids went surfing and we wanted to take a sunrise walk on the beach.
Make sure to pack long trousers and long sleeve shirt. Bring a fly/mosquito sprey with high content of DEET. Then, you should be fine.
Once you are bitten, try not to scratch the bites. If you do not touch them they will disappear in couple of days. This could be very difficult so it is advised to take an antihistamine drops or tablets not to feel itchy.
Sumba is a hidden paradise and an island of contrast: Despite being one of the poorest islands of Indonesia it has one of the most luxurious and best hotels in the world, Nihi Sumba, where elites like Beckham's family spent their vacation.
With its natural wonders, untouched beaches, rich culture, and ancient traditions, Sumba has been touted as the next big thing in Indonesian tourism. It is quickly becoming a popular travel destination.
It is only 50 min flight from Bali, but it feels as though you have landed in a different country. Landscape is mixture of dry undulating savanna hills (no green steep volcanoes like in many other Indonesian islands) and untamed beaches. Beautiful white beaches with no tourists! Whole beach just for yourself!
Sumba is a very dry island and only gets green in the rainy season. It is beautiful in both seasons.
One thing to be aware of here at the beaches are sand flies. This can really spoil your experience if you are not prepared for those. When we travelled in dry season we have not seen a single sand fly and were not even aware of them being at Sumba.
While in rainy season, we have quite an unpleasant experience. In about 6 beautiful beaches we visited, they were at 3.
Mostly in the morning and in the evening. It was not easy while the kids went surfing and we wanted to take a sunrise walk on the beach.
Make sure to pack long trousers and long sleeve shirt. Bring a fly/mosquito sprey with high content of DEET. Then, you should be fine.
Once you are bitten, try not to scratch the bites. If you do not touch them they will disappear in couple of days. This could be very difficult so it is advised to take an antihistamine drops or tablets not to feel itchy.
a) Where to go? East or West?
b) Why to go:
1) East Sumba
2) West Sumba
d) Driver
b) Why to go:
- Beaches
- Waterfalls
- Villages + funeral + megalithic
- Hills view
- Textile - ikat
- Betel
- Hotel (Nihi Sumba)
- Surfing
1) East Sumba
2) West Sumba
d) Driver
a) Where to go? East or West?
West Sumba - Tambolaka (TMC)
East Sumba - Waingapu (WGP)
Sumba is home to two airports, namely Umbu Mehang Kunda Airport in Waingapu and Tambolaka Airport in Tambolaka. Waingapu is located in the eastern part of the island, while Tambolaka sits in the northwest region. Choosing the location usually depends on the travel route planned.
If your time is limited, we would recommend go either East only or West only. You don’t necessarily need to travel the whole island. The attractions start to repeat, you see just next similar village, next similar beautiful beach, next waterfall… The roads are surprisingly better then expected, but still no “highways”. Main roads are relatively good, but to reach some attraction that are off road, you will travel 10km/h.
So East or West? Any. Whatever you choose, you will love it.
We visited East Sumba and it was amazing. My friend visited West Sumba with her teenagers because they could stay in Sumba Foundation, which one of the few places on the island where you get a good food (super luxury hotel Nihi was out of budget). My adventurous 70yo parents visited whole Sumba from East to West, but in the middle of the trip they stated to skip beaches and villages that I planed for them, as it started to be repetitive.
East Sumba - Waingapu (WGP)
Sumba is home to two airports, namely Umbu Mehang Kunda Airport in Waingapu and Tambolaka Airport in Tambolaka. Waingapu is located in the eastern part of the island, while Tambolaka sits in the northwest region. Choosing the location usually depends on the travel route planned.
If your time is limited, we would recommend go either East only or West only. You don’t necessarily need to travel the whole island. The attractions start to repeat, you see just next similar village, next similar beautiful beach, next waterfall… The roads are surprisingly better then expected, but still no “highways”. Main roads are relatively good, but to reach some attraction that are off road, you will travel 10km/h.
So East or West? Any. Whatever you choose, you will love it.
We visited East Sumba and it was amazing. My friend visited West Sumba with her teenagers because they could stay in Sumba Foundation, which one of the few places on the island where you get a good food (super luxury hotel Nihi was out of budget). My adventurous 70yo parents visited whole Sumba from East to West, but in the middle of the trip they stated to skip beaches and villages that I planed for them, as it started to be repetitive.
b) Why to go
1) Beaches
Sumba has amazing white beaches with clean turquoise water. Like from catalogue. Often you will be the only tourist there.
Downside is, that since there are hardly any tourists, there are also no restaurants. Maybe on the more popular beaches (like Walakiri beach) you will find a warung selling coconuts and local snacks.
So, bring your water, drinks, and food!
Downside is, that since there are hardly any tourists, there are also no restaurants. Maybe on the more popular beaches (like Walakiri beach) you will find a warung selling coconuts and local snacks.
So, bring your water, drinks, and food!
2) Waterfalls
Waterfalls on Sumba are really amazing! Very natural and clean. Usually, to visit them you have pass with your car and walk through savanna and when you arrive you feel like you are in the different world. You can jump and swim in them. It's really refreshing!
3) Villages + funeral + megalithic
On Sumba you can find many traditional villages. Village consists of traditional houses and in the middle are old megalithic graves for nobility with carved symbols that are full of meanings.
4) Hills view
5) Textile - Ikat
6) Betel
7) Hotels - Nihi Resort
There are very few hotels in Sumba...
C) How we did it
1) EAST SUMBA
DAY 1
There is no direct fly from Jakarta to Sumba. Most of the travelers make a stopover in Bali.
We left Jakarta at 5am, changed flight in Bali and arrived to Waingapu (WGP) at 11:20am.
There were many drivers at the airport (book one in advance, if you can), we picked one (we didn't like him) that brought us to our hotel, Padadita Beach hotel. The hotel was clean, food was good (not excellent and it took some time to prepare) and it was just what we needed to discover East Sumba. Hotel is close to beach, but it is a mangrove coast, so you can't go to the water.
We quickly checked in, eat lunch and hired the hotel driver, that spoke a bit English and was excellent.
There is no direct fly from Jakarta to Sumba. Most of the travelers make a stopover in Bali.
We left Jakarta at 5am, changed flight in Bali and arrived to Waingapu (WGP) at 11:20am.
There were many drivers at the airport (book one in advance, if you can), we picked one (we didn't like him) that brought us to our hotel, Padadita Beach hotel. The hotel was clean, food was good (not excellent and it took some time to prepare) and it was just what we needed to discover East Sumba. Hotel is close to beach, but it is a mangrove coast, so you can't go to the water.
We quickly checked in, eat lunch and hired the hotel driver, that spoke a bit English and was excellent.

Air Terjun Waimarang
Our first stop was Air Terjun Waimarang. Beautiful secluded natural pool with waterfall!
You need to trek about 30-40 minutes from parking area. The trekking path might be a bit challenging as it is steep and slippery at the end (and muddy after rain). Once you reach there, you can't resist not jump and swim to the small lagoon. It's really refreshing!
Choose good your timing. We were very lucky because we were the only one there (weekday around 3pm). It wouldn’t be comfortable and safe with many tourists because the location is not too big, and the track is full of steep hills with lots of stairs.
Admission fee is a bit chaotic. We paid about Rp 50000 to a boy that was offered to us as a guide (you don’t need a guide).
Don’t forget your sunscreen, hat, sport shoes, swimming suit and camera.
Our first stop was Air Terjun Waimarang. Beautiful secluded natural pool with waterfall!
You need to trek about 30-40 minutes from parking area. The trekking path might be a bit challenging as it is steep and slippery at the end (and muddy after rain). Once you reach there, you can't resist not jump and swim to the small lagoon. It's really refreshing!
Choose good your timing. We were very lucky because we were the only one there (weekday around 3pm). It wouldn’t be comfortable and safe with many tourists because the location is not too big, and the track is full of steep hills with lots of stairs.
Admission fee is a bit chaotic. We paid about Rp 50000 to a boy that was offered to us as a guide (you don’t need a guide).
Don’t forget your sunscreen, hat, sport shoes, swimming suit and camera.
Walakiri Beach
Then we went to Walakiri Beach is one of the iconic beaches in Sumba, very popular among tourists, especially during sunset. Its unique mangrove trees and white sand makes the sunset very instagramable.
Then we went to Walakiri Beach is one of the iconic beaches in Sumba, very popular among tourists, especially during sunset. Its unique mangrove trees and white sand makes the sunset very instagramable.
DAY 2
Tanggedu Waterfall
Really amazing! It's a diamond of nature, an oasis in the dessert. Very natural. To go there you have to pass long journey through savanna and walk also, but when you arrive like you are in the different
world. It is a must visit in East Sumba.
The way to this village is not good. The road is broken and not asphalt. Took 2,5 hours to reach Tanggedu village. After you park the car, you will trek for 40 min (20 min crossing the fields, 20 min woods with high steps). It is all worth when you arrive at the gorgeous curtain-like-fall with breathtaking gorges and rock formations.
You can find some pond to chill out. Buy a coconut (there are coconut sellers) and enjoy life!
There is even a cave that serves as a changing room.
You will pay a small entrance fee.
Don’t forget your sunscreen, hat, sport shoes, swimming suit and camera.
Tanggedu Waterfall
Really amazing! It's a diamond of nature, an oasis in the dessert. Very natural. To go there you have to pass long journey through savanna and walk also, but when you arrive like you are in the different
world. It is a must visit in East Sumba.
The way to this village is not good. The road is broken and not asphalt. Took 2,5 hours to reach Tanggedu village. After you park the car, you will trek for 40 min (20 min crossing the fields, 20 min woods with high steps). It is all worth when you arrive at the gorgeous curtain-like-fall with breathtaking gorges and rock formations.
You can find some pond to chill out. Buy a coconut (there are coconut sellers) and enjoy life!
There is even a cave that serves as a changing room.
You will pay a small entrance fee.
Don’t forget your sunscreen, hat, sport shoes, swimming suit and camera.
Puru Kambera beach
Puru Kambera Beach is a stretch of 5 km beautiful white sand with blue water and cool sea breeze. The beauty of Puru Kambera is that it is still very natural and clean. Along the shore there is a stretch of green and shady pine trees. The waves are relatively calm so children can play in the water.
Puru Kambera Beach is a stretch of 5 km beautiful white sand with blue water and cool sea breeze. The beauty of Puru Kambera is that it is still very natural and clean. Along the shore there is a stretch of green and shady pine trees. The waves are relatively calm so children can play in the water.
Bukit Wairinding
This beautiful hill is breathtaking. It is one of iconic and most visited places in Sumba. The wonderful panorama, the breeze and quiet atmosphere is a calming experience.
The color changes depending on the seasons. During dry season the grass are yellowish, and you will get that "western American" look. If you come on the rainy season (Dec), the grass is green.
The spot is perfect place to see and capture sunset time. The best time to go here is about one hour before sunset until sunsets over.
If you want to make your pictures more photogenic, you can rent a local ikat sarong at the entrance for 50k rupiah.
Some friendly local children play around the hills. It is like the playground for them. It is lovely to see them jumping.
Wairinding is located 1 hour from Waingapu. It is close to main road, only 5 min walk from the parking lot.
This beautiful hill is breathtaking. It is one of iconic and most visited places in Sumba. The wonderful panorama, the breeze and quiet atmosphere is a calming experience.
The color changes depending on the seasons. During dry season the grass are yellowish, and you will get that "western American" look. If you come on the rainy season (Dec), the grass is green.
The spot is perfect place to see and capture sunset time. The best time to go here is about one hour before sunset until sunsets over.
If you want to make your pictures more photogenic, you can rent a local ikat sarong at the entrance for 50k rupiah.
Some friendly local children play around the hills. It is like the playground for them. It is lovely to see them jumping.
Wairinding is located 1 hour from Waingapu. It is close to main road, only 5 min walk from the parking lot.
DAY 3
Textile shop - Tenun Ikat Ama Tukang
Sumba’s textile, IKAT, is very special. Tenun Ikat Ama Tukang is a well-known shop and one of the best quality weaving manufacturers. This is a family business that has been running for 2 generations. Everything is done manually.
First, you will be taken to a pavilion to see the weaving process. Outside you can observe freshly dyed thread and various plants and materials for creating natural colours. The shop owner showed us some ikats and explained us story behind the design.
We were offered to be dressed to ikat cloth and took pictures.
At the end we bought some ikats and mamuli, but you don’t have to. The price is not cheap, Rp 1-25 mio, however it is still not expensive given how much work is needed to produce it.
Textile shop - Tenun Ikat Ama Tukang
Sumba’s textile, IKAT, is very special. Tenun Ikat Ama Tukang is a well-known shop and one of the best quality weaving manufacturers. This is a family business that has been running for 2 generations. Everything is done manually.
First, you will be taken to a pavilion to see the weaving process. Outside you can observe freshly dyed thread and various plants and materials for creating natural colours. The shop owner showed us some ikats and explained us story behind the design.
We were offered to be dressed to ikat cloth and took pictures.
At the end we bought some ikats and mamuli, but you don’t have to. The price is not cheap, Rp 1-25 mio, however it is still not expensive given how much work is needed to produce it.
We tried BETEL here. We did not really enjoyed, but it was super interesting. Try it!
Pantai Watuparunu (Watuparunu Beach)
Watuparunu is 3 hours drive from Waingapu. If you're looking for tranquility then this is the right place. Bring picnic, as there is no store and no warung.
When we were there people were collecting and drying seaweeds, what was very interesting to see.
Not as special and beautiful as Puru Kambera Beach.
Watuparunu is 3 hours drive from Waingapu. If you're looking for tranquility then this is the right place. Bring picnic, as there is no store and no warung.
When we were there people were collecting and drying seaweeds, what was very interesting to see.
Not as special and beautiful as Puru Kambera Beach.
Traditional village - Kampung Adat Praiyawang
There was an important funeral on that day.
There was an important funeral on that day.
DAY 4
Just because we had time before our flight, we went to Bukit Mauliru and Bukit Persaudaraan. Both of them are not far away from Waingapu and from the airport. We come by car, took pictures a left. Very quick. No need to walk (only if you want as we did). Free.
Bukit Mauliru
Just because we had time before our flight, we went to Bukit Mauliru and Bukit Persaudaraan. Both of them are not far away from Waingapu and from the airport. We come by car, took pictures a left. Very quick. No need to walk (only if you want as we did). Free.
Bukit Mauliru
Bukit Persaudaraan
Driver for East Sumba:
Pak Anton: +62 813 3814 1776
Pak Anton speaks sufficiently English, is punctual, always in a good mood and knows all the tourist attraction described here. He is from Waingapu, East Sumba.
Price: 800 000 Rp per day
Pak Anton: +62 813 3814 1776
Pak Anton speaks sufficiently English, is punctual, always in a good mood and knows all the tourist attraction described here. He is from Waingapu, East Sumba.
Price: 800 000 Rp per day
2) West Sumba
Under construction.