Komodo Islands
Written in Nov 2021
Is Komodo Island worth visiting?
Yes! Komodo National Park is probably the most amazing destination in Indonesia. I still remember the day when I was new to Jakarta and I asked my experienced-expat-friend who lived 16 years in Indonesia, that if she could choose only one destination to visit, which one would it be and she said Komodo Islands. She was so right!
A trip to Komodo islands is not only about the famous Komodo dragons. Yes, they are impressive animals sharing a common ancestor with dinosaurs, but the trip comes with the whole package. You will see white beaches, pink beaches, corals, manta rays, flying fishes, Nemos, bioluminescence, maybe even dolphins, beautiful sunsets and sunrises, do o lot of snorkeling, diving and walking.
Why you should visit Komodo Islands:
Is Komodo Island worth visiting?
Yes! Komodo National Park is probably the most amazing destination in Indonesia. I still remember the day when I was new to Jakarta and I asked my experienced-expat-friend who lived 16 years in Indonesia, that if she could choose only one destination to visit, which one would it be and she said Komodo Islands. She was so right!
A trip to Komodo islands is not only about the famous Komodo dragons. Yes, they are impressive animals sharing a common ancestor with dinosaurs, but the trip comes with the whole package. You will see white beaches, pink beaches, corals, manta rays, flying fishes, Nemos, bioluminescence, maybe even dolphins, beautiful sunsets and sunrises, do o lot of snorkeling, diving and walking.
Why you should visit Komodo Islands:
- Komodo dragons
- Beaches – white or pink
- Sealife – Snorkeling and diving
- Sunrise or sunset walking
- Liveaboard sailing experience
1. Komodo dragons
Komodo Dragons (Varanus komodoensis) are the heaviest lizards on Earth, reaching 165 kg and 3m. They can be found only in Indonesia, on the islands that are close to each other: Komodo island and Rinca island.
Today the Komodo Dragon is often thought of as the closest living relative to the dinosaurs, in truth is only 4million years old, which in fact is nowhere close to dinosaurs dating back to 231 million years ago, but we can still dream. Komodos share a common ancestor with dinosaurs, but do not descend from them.
Their saliva contains more than 50 different strains of bacteria that can result in the death of prey from infection even after only being bitten. So, be careful!
In 1991, the Komodo National Park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site to protect the Komodo dragon. Neither island has fences or roads and the dragons roam as they please.
On which island you can see the dragons?
Komodo island and Rinca island only.
As a part of your trip, you should definitely stop on Komodo island and/or on Rinca island. We stopped on both islands. If you have time and money (you have to pay the entrance fee on each island separately) and if you like to walk, then I would recommend you to visit both islands. If not, any of them would be fine. Some komodos are staying near the ranger’s cottages enjoying the smells of the kitchen (we were reassured that they are not fed and must fend in the wild for food), so you are almost guaranteed to see at least one animal. We saw more komodos on Rinca island, but some other families saw more of them on Komodo island. So, you never know.
You will be accompanied by rangers armed with forked sticks. You must follow and stay with them at all times.
In 2019 there were rumours that Komodo island would be closed for tourists for a limited period (you could still see the Komodo dragons on Rinca island). Currently (Nov 2021) both islands are open, but better check before going.
For foreigners, the entrance fee to each island is between 150 000 – 500 000 Rp. No discount for KITAS holders, but we managed to negotiate a 50% discount for children (If I good remember, in 2018 we paid around Rp 300 000 per adult and Rp 150 000 per child, on each island) for snorkelling and trekking permission.
Domestic tourists pay much less, only about Rp 5 000.
There was another rumour that the entrance fee to Komodo island would be $1 000 per person, but so far there has not been any official announcement from the Ministry or the Komodo National Park.
Komodo Dragons (Varanus komodoensis) are the heaviest lizards on Earth, reaching 165 kg and 3m. They can be found only in Indonesia, on the islands that are close to each other: Komodo island and Rinca island.
Today the Komodo Dragon is often thought of as the closest living relative to the dinosaurs, in truth is only 4million years old, which in fact is nowhere close to dinosaurs dating back to 231 million years ago, but we can still dream. Komodos share a common ancestor with dinosaurs, but do not descend from them.
Their saliva contains more than 50 different strains of bacteria that can result in the death of prey from infection even after only being bitten. So, be careful!
In 1991, the Komodo National Park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site to protect the Komodo dragon. Neither island has fences or roads and the dragons roam as they please.
On which island you can see the dragons?
Komodo island and Rinca island only.
As a part of your trip, you should definitely stop on Komodo island and/or on Rinca island. We stopped on both islands. If you have time and money (you have to pay the entrance fee on each island separately) and if you like to walk, then I would recommend you to visit both islands. If not, any of them would be fine. Some komodos are staying near the ranger’s cottages enjoying the smells of the kitchen (we were reassured that they are not fed and must fend in the wild for food), so you are almost guaranteed to see at least one animal. We saw more komodos on Rinca island, but some other families saw more of them on Komodo island. So, you never know.
You will be accompanied by rangers armed with forked sticks. You must follow and stay with them at all times.
In 2019 there were rumours that Komodo island would be closed for tourists for a limited period (you could still see the Komodo dragons on Rinca island). Currently (Nov 2021) both islands are open, but better check before going.
For foreigners, the entrance fee to each island is between 150 000 – 500 000 Rp. No discount for KITAS holders, but we managed to negotiate a 50% discount for children (If I good remember, in 2018 we paid around Rp 300 000 per adult and Rp 150 000 per child, on each island) for snorkelling and trekking permission.
Domestic tourists pay much less, only about Rp 5 000.
There was another rumour that the entrance fee to Komodo island would be $1 000 per person, but so far there has not been any official announcement from the Ministry or the Komodo National Park.
Komodo island:
Rinca Island:
2. Beaches
Basically, all beaches in Komodo National Park are white and some of them are pink. The most popular beaches will be probably on your in your itinerary. I noticed that the further you are from Labuan Bajo, the nicer and less touristic the beaches are.
The popular beaches are:
a) Pink Beach
Pink beach - make a stop there as it is a very unique place. In Komodo National Park are actually various pink beaches, but the others are less popular. The sand is pink from the red corals that surround them. The beach is lightly pink, not dark pink as you might see on some photoshopped images. Please don’t take sand home, as it is forbidden (they might confiscate it at Labuan Bajo airport) and if each tourist takes just a little bit, the beach will slowly disappear.
b) Taka Makassar
Beautiful tiny sandy island surrounded by colourful corals and fishes. Close to Manta point.
c) A remote white-sand island
If you ever dreamed to spend time on a remote white-sand island, here you have numerous opportunities for your dream to come true. Just pick one!
If you have time, stop on a beach that you like even if it is not in your itinerary. We made a short stop on a random beach and we were surprised by many tiny colourful crabs, that we didn’t see anywhere else. You might also be lucky to find something unexpected.
Basically, all beaches in Komodo National Park are white and some of them are pink. The most popular beaches will be probably on your in your itinerary. I noticed that the further you are from Labuan Bajo, the nicer and less touristic the beaches are.
The popular beaches are:
a) Pink Beach
Pink beach - make a stop there as it is a very unique place. In Komodo National Park are actually various pink beaches, but the others are less popular. The sand is pink from the red corals that surround them. The beach is lightly pink, not dark pink as you might see on some photoshopped images. Please don’t take sand home, as it is forbidden (they might confiscate it at Labuan Bajo airport) and if each tourist takes just a little bit, the beach will slowly disappear.
b) Taka Makassar
Beautiful tiny sandy island surrounded by colourful corals and fishes. Close to Manta point.
c) A remote white-sand island
If you ever dreamed to spend time on a remote white-sand island, here you have numerous opportunities for your dream to come true. Just pick one!
If you have time, stop on a beach that you like even if it is not in your itinerary. We made a short stop on a random beach and we were surprised by many tiny colourful crabs, that we didn’t see anywhere else. You might also be lucky to find something unexpected.
3. Sealife – Snorkelling and diving
a) Manta point
The currents around Manta Point attract the manta rays and it is possible to swim with them. They are so huge and gracious! You might be lucky to see turtles there too. You can dive or snorkel.
From the Manta Point you will move with the current and finish your snorkelling at a beautiful tiny sandy island, Taka Makassar, surrounded by colourful corals and fishes.
b) Marine life
Komodo has one of the best diving and marine life in the world. While Manta point is definitely a must, there are also many other great snorkelling/diving spots, that are less touristic. You can explore pristine and colourful coral reefs, surrounded by huge schools of fish, see turtles, dolphins, mantas and even the bizarrely-shaped sunfish.
c) Sparkling bioluminescence lights up the ocean at night
At night check the ocean for bioluminescence - tiny ocean creatures that emit light covering wave-washed shores and the wake of boats with thousands of sparkling blue lights. We have seen a few bioluminescence lights around our boat.
a) Manta point
The currents around Manta Point attract the manta rays and it is possible to swim with them. They are so huge and gracious! You might be lucky to see turtles there too. You can dive or snorkel.
From the Manta Point you will move with the current and finish your snorkelling at a beautiful tiny sandy island, Taka Makassar, surrounded by colourful corals and fishes.
b) Marine life
Komodo has one of the best diving and marine life in the world. While Manta point is definitely a must, there are also many other great snorkelling/diving spots, that are less touristic. You can explore pristine and colourful coral reefs, surrounded by huge schools of fish, see turtles, dolphins, mantas and even the bizarrely-shaped sunfish.
c) Sparkling bioluminescence lights up the ocean at night
At night check the ocean for bioluminescence - tiny ocean creatures that emit light covering wave-washed shores and the wake of boats with thousands of sparkling blue lights. We have seen a few bioluminescence lights around our boat.
4. Sunrise or sunset walking (or walking any time of the day)
a) Padar Island (Pulau Padar)
The rugged topography, steep mountains and hills make Padar island one of the most instagramable viewpoints. Padar island is a must. I am sure you have seen many pictures of this island. The hills are green after the rainy season in April and yellowish before the rainy season in October. Depending on your fitness level, it will take you about 15 min to climb 768 stairs up to the viewpoint.
It is popular to go there for sunrise, sunset or anytime during the day.
b) Kelor island (Pulau Kelor)
Due to its proximity to Labuan Bajo this uninhabited, tiny island is usually the first or last destination on the Komodo Islands tour.
It is a very steep 10 minutes climb up and an even steeper climb down. The sandy path is slippery, so the walk is not comfortable at all. The view is beautiful, but not a must, in case you are not fit or have small children or you are short of time.
It is nice to stretch legs after the 2-hour ride from Labuan Bajo and most of the boats stops here so it gets a bit crowded.
If you don’t have a lot of time, you can skip this island.
c) Komodo island and Rinca island
As mentioned above, at least one of the islands is a must at it is the only place to see the Komodo dragons (link above). To see the lizards in nature, you will take a 1-4 hours walk around each island. The path is relatively flat, so it is a pleasant walk (it is just a bit too hot so remember to take a bottle of water with you). The time of your trek depends on the route you choose – e.g. Komodo island offers 4 different trekking routes (short, medium, long & adventure) with the shortest taking less than an hour and the longest (adventure trek) up to 4 hours.
d) Gili Lawa
Gili Lawa was closed in 2018 for reforestation due to a fire. Maybe it is open already.
Padar island:
a) Padar Island (Pulau Padar)
The rugged topography, steep mountains and hills make Padar island one of the most instagramable viewpoints. Padar island is a must. I am sure you have seen many pictures of this island. The hills are green after the rainy season in April and yellowish before the rainy season in October. Depending on your fitness level, it will take you about 15 min to climb 768 stairs up to the viewpoint.
It is popular to go there for sunrise, sunset or anytime during the day.
b) Kelor island (Pulau Kelor)
Due to its proximity to Labuan Bajo this uninhabited, tiny island is usually the first or last destination on the Komodo Islands tour.
It is a very steep 10 minutes climb up and an even steeper climb down. The sandy path is slippery, so the walk is not comfortable at all. The view is beautiful, but not a must, in case you are not fit or have small children or you are short of time.
It is nice to stretch legs after the 2-hour ride from Labuan Bajo and most of the boats stops here so it gets a bit crowded.
If you don’t have a lot of time, you can skip this island.
c) Komodo island and Rinca island
As mentioned above, at least one of the islands is a must at it is the only place to see the Komodo dragons (link above). To see the lizards in nature, you will take a 1-4 hours walk around each island. The path is relatively flat, so it is a pleasant walk (it is just a bit too hot so remember to take a bottle of water with you). The time of your trek depends on the route you choose – e.g. Komodo island offers 4 different trekking routes (short, medium, long & adventure) with the shortest taking less than an hour and the longest (adventure trek) up to 4 hours.
d) Gili Lawa
Gili Lawa was closed in 2018 for reforestation due to a fire. Maybe it is open already.
Padar island:
Kelor island:
5. Liveaboard or hotel?
When it comes to choosing between staying in a hotel in Labuan Bajo or a boat, I would definitely choose a liveaboard, but we have friends that stayed in a hotel and were happy too.
a) Liveaboard pro and cons
Living on a liveaboard is a lifetime experience. There is more staff on the boat than guests (even you don’t see them). They are professionals and the days go very smoothly, always something happening. During the rides between the islands, you are served breakfast, lunch or dinner. To have more fun, I would advise you to go with friends (that you like as you will spend a lot of time together in a small space).
One person in our group gets very easy car sick, so his mom was worried, but if you go during the dry season the sea is calm and we didn’t feel any sea movements. During the night the boat was parked in a bay, 100-300 m from an island and the sea was super calm.
We didn’t get any mosquito bites on the boat (I guess they don’t fly that far from the land to the sea).
Our only problem was the air con during the night. The air was quite pleasant at night, but you had to open your cabin door to get a fresh breeze. My friend was afraid of mosquitos, so she kept the door closed, got hot and wanted the aircon on. To have aircon working the boat engine have to be on, which is very noisy.
The cabins are usually very small and basic, just with beds. On our boat were 2 toilets. You don’t get a luxury of a hotel room.
Food was simple but yummy. If you have any requirements regarding breakfast, coffee, drinks. etc, talk to your guide in advance. Otherwise, you might finish with Indonesian breakfast, Indonesian coffee and a lot of Coca-cola and Sprite.
b) Hotel pro and cons
There are some great hotels around Labuan Bajo, for example, Ayana or Sudamala. Unfortunately, their prices are not cheap. Day trips organized by hotel might be expensive, but you can check other day-tour organizers. In my opinion, you lose a lot of time travelling, as you have to return every day to the hotel (2-4 hours going there and 2-4 hours back).
If you would like to stay a few days in a hotel, choose one that is OUTSIDE the city. Hotels in Labuan Bajo city are not nice for spending long vacation. Depending on the currents, the seashore might get really dirty. Most of the tourists have to stay in a hotel in Labuan Bajo one night before and one night after going to a liveaboard, because there are no early arrival or late departure flights (it might change).
Life on a phinisi:
When it comes to choosing between staying in a hotel in Labuan Bajo or a boat, I would definitely choose a liveaboard, but we have friends that stayed in a hotel and were happy too.
a) Liveaboard pro and cons
Living on a liveaboard is a lifetime experience. There is more staff on the boat than guests (even you don’t see them). They are professionals and the days go very smoothly, always something happening. During the rides between the islands, you are served breakfast, lunch or dinner. To have more fun, I would advise you to go with friends (that you like as you will spend a lot of time together in a small space).
One person in our group gets very easy car sick, so his mom was worried, but if you go during the dry season the sea is calm and we didn’t feel any sea movements. During the night the boat was parked in a bay, 100-300 m from an island and the sea was super calm.
We didn’t get any mosquito bites on the boat (I guess they don’t fly that far from the land to the sea).
Our only problem was the air con during the night. The air was quite pleasant at night, but you had to open your cabin door to get a fresh breeze. My friend was afraid of mosquitos, so she kept the door closed, got hot and wanted the aircon on. To have aircon working the boat engine have to be on, which is very noisy.
The cabins are usually very small and basic, just with beds. On our boat were 2 toilets. You don’t get a luxury of a hotel room.
Food was simple but yummy. If you have any requirements regarding breakfast, coffee, drinks. etc, talk to your guide in advance. Otherwise, you might finish with Indonesian breakfast, Indonesian coffee and a lot of Coca-cola and Sprite.
b) Hotel pro and cons
There are some great hotels around Labuan Bajo, for example, Ayana or Sudamala. Unfortunately, their prices are not cheap. Day trips organized by hotel might be expensive, but you can check other day-tour organizers. In my opinion, you lose a lot of time travelling, as you have to return every day to the hotel (2-4 hours going there and 2-4 hours back).
If you would like to stay a few days in a hotel, choose one that is OUTSIDE the city. Hotels in Labuan Bajo city are not nice for spending long vacation. Depending on the currents, the seashore might get really dirty. Most of the tourists have to stay in a hotel in Labuan Bajo one night before and one night after going to a liveaboard, because there are no early arrival or late departure flights (it might change).
Life on a phinisi:
How many days do you need in Komodo Islands?
Komodo liveaboard safaris range from 2 to 10-night adventures. We have been on a boat for 3 whole days (2 nights) and I think that it was perfect.
When you should visit Komodo Islands?
Be careful with the planning. Generally, April – Nov are good months to visit. April – Jun are probably the best months, as it is after the rainy season, so the islands are picturesquely green. July and August might be a bit pricier, as it is a peak season. Sept – Nov are good months but the islands are dry. However, some people prefer this savanna style look.
Jan and February is the rainy season that can extend from December to March. Weather can be pretty wild with winds, waves and heavy rainfall, meaning few tours run, especially in February. One of our friends visited Komodo island around Christmas 2021 and they said that the weather was OK, no big waves. Another friend wanted to go during the rainy season (in 2019, but I don’t remember which month exactly), but she couldn’t find any tour operator via the internet. We heard that some liveaboards go to Raja Ampat during Komoro’s rainy season (Raja Ampat is a diving paradise in Papua, Indonesia, that has different rainy seasons, May-Sept)
How do you get to Komodo Islands?
The closest airport is in Labuan Bajo on Flores island. Airport is small but new and nice.
Komodo liveaboard safaris range from 2 to 10-night adventures. We have been on a boat for 3 whole days (2 nights) and I think that it was perfect.
When you should visit Komodo Islands?
Be careful with the planning. Generally, April – Nov are good months to visit. April – Jun are probably the best months, as it is after the rainy season, so the islands are picturesquely green. July and August might be a bit pricier, as it is a peak season. Sept – Nov are good months but the islands are dry. However, some people prefer this savanna style look.
Jan and February is the rainy season that can extend from December to March. Weather can be pretty wild with winds, waves and heavy rainfall, meaning few tours run, especially in February. One of our friends visited Komodo island around Christmas 2021 and they said that the weather was OK, no big waves. Another friend wanted to go during the rainy season (in 2019, but I don’t remember which month exactly), but she couldn’t find any tour operator via the internet. We heard that some liveaboards go to Raja Ampat during Komoro’s rainy season (Raja Ampat is a diving paradise in Papua, Indonesia, that has different rainy seasons, May-Sept)
How do you get to Komodo Islands?
The closest airport is in Labuan Bajo on Flores island. Airport is small but new and nice.
How we did it?
You have many options and the crew is usually very kind and flexible. Below is our itinerary 3D/2N, just to have an idea:
OPTION 1:
Day 1: Direct flight from Jakarta to Labuan Bajo. We have booked and paid a deposit for our boat in advance, but we paid the rest only after inspection of the boat on day 1. We slept in Bintang hotel (the hotel was ok, but the beach was full of trash).
Day 2: 8 am in harbour, buy beer and snacks in a supermarket, sailing to Kelor Island - Pink Beach (Padar) - Padar Island (sleep in a bay close to Padar island)
Day 3: Sunrise at Padar island - Manta Point - Taka Makassar - Komodo Island (sleep in a bay close to Komodo island)
Day 4: Komodo Island - Manjarite - Kanawa Island, 6pm arrival back to Labuan Bajo.
Day 5: Early flight to Bali, where we spend the rest of our October break vacation.
You have many options and the crew is usually very kind and flexible. Below is our itinerary 3D/2N, just to have an idea:
OPTION 1:
Day 1: Direct flight from Jakarta to Labuan Bajo. We have booked and paid a deposit for our boat in advance, but we paid the rest only after inspection of the boat on day 1. We slept in Bintang hotel (the hotel was ok, but the beach was full of trash).
Day 2: 8 am in harbour, buy beer and snacks in a supermarket, sailing to Kelor Island - Pink Beach (Padar) - Padar Island (sleep in a bay close to Padar island)
Day 3: Sunrise at Padar island - Manta Point - Taka Makassar - Komodo Island (sleep in a bay close to Komodo island)
Day 4: Komodo Island - Manjarite - Kanawa Island, 6pm arrival back to Labuan Bajo.
Day 5: Early flight to Bali, where we spend the rest of our October break vacation.
Boat (Phinisi) recommedation:
Most of the Indonesian sailing vessels used in Komodo are called “Phinisi”.
If you travel with children or you don’t have a lot of time, I would advise to you to book a boat in advance. It might be overwhelming to do it directly in Labuan Bajo main street. Ask other expats which boat they used recently. At the time we went, all boats recommended by other expats were booked, so we found our Wae Rebo Phinisi on booking.com, but we communicated with the boat company directly.
a) Wae Rebo Phinisi
The private trip, used in Oct 2018, 3D/2N, 28 Mio/10 pax (deposit 5 Mio, rest paid 1 day before the trip in the agency in Labuan Bajo after inspecting the boat)
Price Include :
1. Meals and non-alcoholic drinks during cruise
- Food served: Chicken, fish, shrimp, squid, vegetables, rice, bread and fruit. Please notify your guide in advance if you have any requests
- Tourists can buy alcohol and snacks in a supermarket in the harbour before the trip – ask your guide to take you there
- Refrigerator and freezer available on the boat
- Ask for Nescafe if you don’t like Indonesian style coffee
2. All boat facilities
3. Snorkeling equipment (fins, mask and goggles)
4. Cruise Leader and Crew
Price Exclude :
1. Airport/Hotel/Harbor Transfers (in-out)
2. Entrance fee Komodo National Park & Ranger (Estimated IDR 300.000 /Pax)
3. Tipping for boat crew
4. Travel Insurance
https://www.facebook.com/waerebopinisi/
Indah Wisata Labuan Bajo, Jalan Soekarno Hatta (in front of Le Pirate or Artomoro Restaurant), Labuan Bajo, Komodo 86754, Kabupaten Mangarai Barat, Flores, NTT, Phone : +62 813 80441673, Santos (boat guide): +62 812-8027-2083, Ms Mesa: +62 823-1166-9130
b) Wunderpus Liveaboard
The private trip used in Dec 2020: “We’ve just come off the Wunderpus after a fantastic 5 day liveaboard with another JIS family. We sailed around the Komodo National Park - 3 dives/snorkelling each day. Easy 2.5-hour flight from Jakarta on Garuda. Wunderpus made all arrangements for our Covid antigen tests in Labuan Bajo so we could travel back to Jakarta. They are very good. Highly recommended!”
Wunderpus is more luxurious than Wae Rebo Phinisi mentioned above.
Webpage: wunderpusliveaboard.com
c) Top Komodo Tours (boat Dara)
The private trip used in 2018 and 2019 by our friends. Phinisi name was "Dara". Excellent boat, food and staff. With AC.
4D/3N for 2 adults and 2 children: 25 mio
Webpage: https://topkomodotour.com
Wae Rebo
Wunderpus
Dara (Top Komodo Tour)